There used to be a castle on the site of this marvellously situated campsite; and although it may have been dismantled in the 1550s, the chances are its battlements would be crammed full of flowers if it were still around. Not for nothing have the campsite’s owners, the Rees family, won the Wales in Bloom campsite category for over five years now. Paying quiet consideration to a camper’s every need is what this dedicated family does so very well, and the main reason why staying here is such a special experience.
Pencelli is a place that is just packed full of history, though the more gory bits are now consigned to the file labelled ‘historical interest’. Thankfully the bloody battles that were fought here up until the 1300s are now a thing of the distant past. The castle was around until the 1550s, when it was pulled to bits and taken to be used for local building material. But there are some shadowy reminders of its former grandeur all over the site, like bits of the old walls, or the house, which was part of the chapel until 1583.
You can almost picture the castle as you pitch your tent in one of the three fields. The Meadow is the largest field and is reserved exclusively for tent campers. All the pitches have a backdrop of stupendous views of heather-clad mountains and sheep-strewn, rolling hills, although the drawback is the slightly longer walk from here to the facilities. The Oaks and Meadow lie in a horseshoe around the old moat, now part of the Monmouthshire Canal, which runs alongside the site today. You can even launch your boat or canoe directly into the water from the camping field.
The fields are ancient and spacious, with lots of shady, sheltered spots under some of the biggest and oldest oak trees in the parish. Wooden picnic tables are scattered around – perfect if you feel like having a peaceful meal admiring the view – and there are plenty of water points in all the fields. All in all, it’s a well-organised and well-planned site, especially good for first-timers, with flat, sheltered pitches, spotless facilities and even a castle themed play area for the kids.
The Brecon to Monmouthshire Canal (01873 830328) runs right along the edge of the site, and you can take a boat trip on it. You can also hire day boats for 4–8 people. There is pony-trekking at Cantref (01874 665223), as well as a play farm, with pig-racing and sheep-shearing to watch. Pen y Fan, the highest point in the Brecon Beacons isn’t far and is a great excursion for older kids. It can be reached by a combination of driving and walking, well worth it for the magnificent views. The Taff Trail (01639 893661) criss-crosses this area, a network of cycle paths running along the canal and through the villages.
100 metres up the road is the Royal Oak pub, but the best food is found in the White Swan (01874 665276) in Llanfrynach. There’s a farm shop at Middle Wood, which is good for local meat. An onsite shop sells basic provisions, and if you order before 4.30pm you can have a delivery of milk and bread for the following morning. A mile away you can buy lethal local cider from Aber Valley, but if you’re up early with the kids then it might be better to stick to their equally excellent, though less potent, apple juice.