There's been a quiet revolution at Maes-y-Bryn Campsite over the years. When we first discovered the former Dafarn Drap (’Horse and Cart’) pub, set high in the Conwy Valley, their campsite was in its early stages of fruition. Today, this family-run smallholding is a single-acre paradise of pitch-where-you like bliss. Still accompanied by the signs of working life – ducks and chickens scratch around the gateway and sheep graze the adjacent field – they've added a clutch of glamping options, too, along with a delightful wildlife trail that leads you past 'bug hotels' and 'hedgehog houses', teaching new-comers the Welsh language as they go. Yet through the changes, the family-friendly tranquility of the campsite that first drew us here remains untouched. It's no surprise to find many other campers here have returned again and again and again.
Nestled right on the eastern edge of Snowdonia National Park, the campsite itself is separated over two levels. The lower part is a flat, well maintained space, bordered on one side by a stream, while the upper half has four level tiers, fenced off into individual pitches. Passed the shower block, the washing-up shelter and the owner's favourite antique Massey Ferguson tractor, you'll also find the secluded, adult-only area of the campsite: The Garden of Peace. Here a Mongolian-style yurt and pair of bell tents make up some of the site's new glamping offering, alongside an intriguing stone labyrinth where guests are invited to reflect and relax as they make their way to the miniature stone-henge-like structure in the centre.
Three miles up from the market town of Llanrwst, Maes-y-Bryn rewards campers with a fine view of Mynydd Hiraethog (the Denbigh Moors) to the north. Llanrwst is worth a visit for its bridge, almshouse museum and plucky if slightly delusional sense of its own independence. The small town possesses a coat of arms and a flag, and glories in the motto Cymru, Lloegr a Llanrwst ('Wales, England and Llanrwst'). It's a half hour drive to Mount Snowdon meanwhile, which you can climb to get the greatest views of the lot.
Llanrwst Almshouse Museum, Llanrwst (3 miles) – from 1610 to 1976 the building that generations of the deserving poor called home. Tree Top Adventure, Trefriw (6 miles) – high level treetop thrills with zip lines and something called a POWERFAN™; 01690 710914.
The Penybont (Scottish and Newcastle), Llanrwst (3¼ miles) – a 14th-century coaching inn serving cask ales next to a splendidly grim stone bridge rumoured to have been designed by Inigo Jones; 01492 640202.