You can stay at Blackberry Wood any number of times, but each visit is likely to feel completely different – partly because the secluded woodland changes with the seasons, but mainly because owner Tim is so focused on expanding his unique range of glamping accommodation, that there’s no anticipating what weird and wonderful structures you might find next. On our first encounter, a double-decker bus poked from a clearing and an assortment of revamped old caravans and bell tents were available for hire. Today, there are also the likes of an ex-RAF helicopter and a brand new treehouse with a shower room built inside its wonky turret!
It’s the ‘proper’ camping, though, that’s the real heritage of this site. Nestled on the South Downs, the place is almost lost among the native woodland. Follow one of the footpaths leading into the rambling straggle of thicket to find twenty of the most coveted pitches, located in individual clearings with a firepit, some rudimentary seating and enough space for a medium-sized tent. Each spot feels gloriously secluded and, with so few pitches in this part of the site, there’s a rare and special kind of peace among the trees, enhanced each evening by the soporific soundtrack of campfires gently fizzing.
On the opposite side of the road a second wooded camping area with a ‘no kids and no groups’ rule also does a roaring trade during peak season – it’s popularity only waning as couples return the next year to splash out on one of the glamping options instead. Indeed it’s impossible to visit once and not return again to try out something new. The options just seem endless.
‘Bubble’ the 1960s caravan and a brightly-painted gypsy wagon have a particular air of romance, while the red Routemaster bus, equipped with a kitchen/diner downstairs and a kids’ soft-play area upstairs is on the more eccentric end of the spectrum. The full-sized RAF chopper with rotor blades still attached is an even more bizarre find still. It’s Tim’s new treehouse, though, completed in 2016, that is perhaps his biggest pride and joy. It sleeps up to four adults (or two adults and three children), with a double bed and a snug loft bed, as well as featuring a well-equipped kitchen, a wood-burning stove and a sun terrace outside. Its higgledy-piggledy shape formed by the naturally irregular branches gives it a charming, storybook quality.
All these contraptions can be found scattered around the first small field when checking in at the reception caravan. Of course, reception was in a caravan at the time of writing, but we hear that NASA is selling off de-commissioned space shuttles, so next year’s check-in experience might be altogether quite different!
The South Downs National Park (01730 814810) is the newest in the UK, which means a lot of recent investment in the excellent paths and landscape. The site provides route maps for lovely local walks, there are footpaths and bridleways galore and depending on which direction you take, a 45-minute walk can take you to the village of Ditchling; to the superb Jolly Sportsman pub or Half Moon with outstanding food and friendly ambience; or to the Black Cap viewpoint, a high point on the South Downs Way from where you can see eight miles across the Sussex countryside to the sea. Chilled-out Lewes is just 5 miles away, or it’s 8 miles to the bright lights of Brighton, with its pier, pebble beach and pavilion.
A well-stocked campsite shop sells local produce, including eggs, bacon, sausages and locally produced wine and beer. There’s some great pubs within walking distance; The Jolly Sportsman and The Half Moon are fantastically snug and cosy and serve up a changing menu of gastro delights. Ditchling the closest village also within walking distance has 2 great pubs and 2 fine luncheon cafes.