Oh what we’d give to be the farmer at Knoll Farm on the Isle of Purbeck in Dorset. Tending the flock, with views down across marshes to the sea and, in the other direction, to the ruins of Corfe Castle standing magnificently in a pinch between two hills. Sure, farming is hard work. But the sunrise, which shimmers over Poole Harbour in the summer, and the dawn chorus from the adjacent Hartland Moor Nature Reserve, must make the early mornings worthwhile.
Today, however, you needn’t be the farmer to enjoy this well-placed parcel of land, at least not during the school summer holidays when the huge field beside Knoll Farm is opened up to campers. Every visitor sings the praises of the fine views, the ever-friendly hosts Nat and Darren, the communal weekend campfires and the general atmosphere of bonhomie that the campsite exudes.
And, while you may not need to be a farmer, this is unashamedly a farm campsite. Campers park beside a wonky fence and a couple of agricultural barns – now a handy sheltered space with rustic straw-bale benches – and set out into the field to find their pitch. And facilities, aside from water taps, toilets and some rustic-looking showers, are few and far between. But for campers who prefer wildlife over nightlife and open space instead of ‘premium serviced pitches', Knoll Farm hits the mark.
While many of the Jurassic Coast’s most popular attractions are within a half-hour drive – Lulworth Cove, Durdle Door, Kimmeridge Bay, Swanage, Studland and Old Harry Rocks, to name but a few – Knoll Farm really lends itself to walking. There’s a supremely scenic half-hour walk through Hartland Moor National Nature Reserve to the Blue Pool, a flooded former clay pit on the Furzebrook Estate with two signed routes through the surrounding woods and heath. Minuscule clay and chalk particles suspended in the water create the pool’s distinctive sparkling quality, sometimes a staggering turquoise colour. To the north, meanwhile, it’s a 50-minute walk into riverside market town of Wareham or it’s a 45-minute stroll south to Corfe Castle, where, along with the castle, the cream teas in the National Trust café make it worth the walk alone. And as for dinner? Well, it’s a 15-minute wander to a good pub at the end of the road. What more could you want?