Little Lochmaddy is the precursor to memorable pitching adventures along North Uist’s sand-edged coastline.
There is not much to Lochmaddy beyond it being the northernmost of the two main ferry ports on the Uists, which form the southern part of the Outer Hebrides island chain along with Barra. In fact—besides a shop, ATM, hotel, and arts centre—there is nothing whatsoever, and no official campground. But look at the surroundings: moors, low mountains, snaking lochs, sea inlets, and gold sand beaches. In this remote landscape, finding a wild campsite is simple. Alternatively, head 7 miles northwest to the designated wild campground Clachan Sands, plonked between two phenomenal sandy beaches.
Teensy Berneray is often left out of trips to the Uists, because it has no ferry connection to the mainland, but this makes its already stunning (and peaceful) sandy beaches even lovelier. Wild camping is the order of the day here, and toward the north of the island, no one is likely to ever see you. The island is connected to North Uist by a causeway.
North Uist has probably the finest example anywhere in the world of the special ecosystem known as machair: grassy and often flower-bedecked dunes that roll behind pristine beaches. At Clachan Sands is a designated wild camping spot (water tap and waste bin only) between two sandy sweeps of beach, with machair all around.
This tussocky, sandy part of the archipelago is most famously associated with a shipwrecked cargo of whisky washing up on the shores (celebrated in book and movie Whisky Galore). It fulfills many people’s dreams of the quintessential Scottish island (wandering sheep, entrancing sandy beaches, and photogenic scattered crofts). The best camping is on the north side of the causeway at Kilbride Campsite; wild camping along the lonely coast of Eriskay is an option, too.
The main weather campers should be aware of are rain and the wind—especially because Lochmaddy and its surrounds have little tree cover. Wind and rain can be bad at any time of year, with Lochmaddy often inaccessible in winter months due to extreme weather. This makes April through October the best window for a visit, when there is a better chance of more camper-friendly weather.