A gateway to the islands, lively Mallaig provides an excellent west Highland base.
The port of Mallaig is often used only as a jumping off point for ferries to the Isle of Skye, the Small Isles, and beyond. Stay a little longer, however, and you’ll find an attractive town where you can soak up the atmosphere of a working fishing port and embark on walks that promise views across the thriving harbor and Loch Nevis to the remote Knoydart Peninsula. Mallaig is also the final stop on the Jacobite Steam Train (better known as the “Harry Potter Train”) route from Fort William.
Between Mallaig and Arisaig along the Road to the Isles, Camusdarach Beach offers white sands and clear waters with great views over the Islands of Eigg, Rum, and the jagged Cuillin Mountains of Skye. This is a great place to base yourself to soak up the scene and enjoy swimming, rock pooling, kayaking, and walking. Set among the seaside scenes and sand dunes, area campsites offer sheltered tent pitches and glamping pods, as well as hard standing pitches for campervans and caravans.
Ten minutes farther south along the Road to the Isles, the little village of Arisaig boasts equally spectacular scenery and provides a good base for exploring the surrounding countryside. North of the village, coastal caravan parks offer grass pitches for tents, as well as spacious hardstanding pitches suitable for caravans, motorhomes, campervans, and trailer tents.
Wild and remote, the Knoydart Peninsula is only accessible by long-distance walk or boat from Mallaig Harbour. Most who make the boat trip only visit for the day to earn bragging rights by stopping in at The Old Forge, famed as Britain’s most remote pub, for a pint or two. Spend the night to tackle the hills and enjoy the tranquility after the daytrippers have gone. Knoydart campsites are commonly set on the beach with views toward the Isle of Rum.
In the summer months, you’ll find Mallaig bustling with tourists disembarking the Jacobite Steam Train and embarking ferries to the islands. The weather in July and August is as good as it gets in Scotland, but to avoid crowds, consider visiting in off-peak months, such as September or October instead. If planning to travel by ferry, note that rough weather can often force cancellation of services to the Small Isles (especially in winter).